Misc. Robert Collins #1
			=======================

Author: Robert Collins
Some editing: Jan Vandenbrande

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Disclaimer by the editor (& presumably the author):

These articles should be regarded as opinions and not fact.
If any product's name or company is mentioned, no connotation should be 
taken for its actual quality, value or use.
There is NO guarantee any of this information is correct.
Neither the authors, editors, or those who maintain these archives take
any responsibility for the consequences that may result from applying
any of the ideas presented within these articles.
Severe damage, injury or loss of life may result from applying the ideas 
presented.
Furthermore, before implementing any of the ideas, check whether such
modifications are allowed in your state, province or country.

All articles may be distributed freely and copied (unless otherwise stated)
as long as the original authors or origine are identified if available.

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>From: rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins)
Subject: GTI Swaybars (28mm rear Neuspeed test report)
Keywords: gti,performance,swaybar,haul-ass,cornering
Date: 5 Apr 88 03:56:05 GMT
Organization: The Consultants' Exchange, Orange County, CA.  (714) 842-6348


Last week, I posted a hope that soon I would install a 28mm rear
sway bar in my '86 GTI and keep the 22mm front sway bar.  When I
suggested this combination to a couple of people, they were a bit
sceptical of too much oversteer in the car.  Well, I've done it.
I hornswaggled a 28mm Neuspeed rear sway bar by trading some extra
VW Motorsport suspension bushings, and racing mots car outhandled
anything else I had ever driven in.  Besides, the oversteer was a
blast.  I admit, that for the amateur driver, oversteer might be a
little dangerous, but if you know how to countersteer, then you will
st like it
should.  In high speed corners (>45), the back end works quite a bit
more...  When in a high speed corner (clover leaf at 55) don't let off
the gas, as the back end will have a tendency to come around.  When it
does, just countersteer, and you'll have a fun ride in the process.

To quell the fears, it's not too much oversteer  bar
15x7 Fittipaldi AERO rims
205 50 15 Yokohama A008 tires (w/ 33000 miles on them).

+--------------------------------------------------------------+
| Be imitators of God, therefore, as dearly loved children and |
| live a life of love, just as Christ loved us and gave himself|
| up for us as a fragrant offering and sacrifice to God.       |
|                                                   Eph. 5:1,2 |
+------------------------------+-------------------------------+
| Robert Collins               | Sykes Systems, Inc            |
| 3361 Keys Lane               | Specializing in APL           |
| Anaheim, Ca.  92804          | 4649 Willens Ave.             |
| (714) 995-7344 (Home)        | Woodland Hills, Ca.  91364    |
| (714) 229-0284 (Work)        | (818) 704-9894                |
+------------------------------+-------------------------------+


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			Robert Collins on CASTROL GTX
			=============================

>From: rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins)
Subject: Re: Castrol
Date: 24 Jun 88 17:02:57 GMT
Reply-To: rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins)
Organization: The Consultants' Exchange, Orange County, CA.  (714) 842-6348

CASTROL LOVERS READ THIS:

In article <2022@alliant.Alliant.COM> powell@alliant.COM (Glen D. Powell) writes:
>
>re: Castrol GTX 20W50
>
>I have been using Castrol in my race car for years. Last year I suffered
>a spun rod bearing with only 9000 miles on a new engine. I have heard
>from various sources about problems with Castrol with respect to main
>and rod bearing failures and also excessive cam wear. I have also experienced
>the excessive cam wear problem with Castrol. I never really believed all
>the bad things I have heard about Castrol, until now. My engine builder asked
>me what I am running in the new new engine and I told him Castrol. He gagged.
>He offered to give me a case of Pennzoil GT 20W50 for *FREE*, if I would
>give away my remaining stock of Castrol and switch to the Pennzoil exclusively,
>and this guy _GIVES AWAY_ *NOTHING*. That is how convinced he is that the
>Castrol is N.G. So, I took him up on it, picked up the free case of Pennzoil,
>and will do the change this week. No more Castrol for me.
>
It's all true.  Here is what I know:  At Drake Engineering, we noticed a
high failure rate of our cams in customers' cars (~1%).  Our installation
instructions were stringent.  Of course, we could never verify if a
customer followed those instructions or not.  So, we started asking
questions.  Did you follow the instructions?  What kind of oil did you
use.  A preponderance of people said Castrol GTX.  (Part of the instructions
'recommended' Valvoline 20/50 Racing motor oil).  One thing made us curious,
(virtually) none of the failures were on Valvoline Racing oil.  So, we had
some of our techie chemical engineer-types look into the problem.  Castrol
was missing Zinc-disulphide -- an ingredient that reduces excessive wear.

One of our customers (race cars) was sponcered by Castrol.  He showed his
sponcer representitive our installation instructions (that said in BIG
print "DO NOT USE CASTROL GTX").  Castrol got a little concerned, not
because some company said don't use their product, but because Drake
Engineering said don't use thier product.  They sent a team of engineers
to Drake to have a 'chat' with us.  We put our cards on the table, and
told them of our experience and the facts.  The concurred, Castrol was
missing Zinc-disulphide.  Six months later, 5 cases of the NEW Castrol
GTX showed up at our shipping bay (free).  So, as a controlled case,
we thought the best way to control the testing was to put the oil, and
a new cam in my car.  Two months later, my cam was flat.

When customers would question us on this, we responded:
"In 65 years of racing, 26 Indianapolis-500 wins, we have NEVER had an
oil related failure with Valvoline Racing oil."
I'll admit, I never clearly understood their definition of 'oil related
failure' but I'm told they mean oil break down.

Since my Castrol experience, I've been using nothing but Valvoline Racing
motor oil.  So, in all fairness, I should point out that I went to adjust
the valves two weeks ago, and found one flat cam lobe.


-- 
"Worship the Lord your God, and serve him only."  Mat. 4:10
Robert Collins                 UUCP:  ucbvax!ucivax!icnvax!conexch!rob
HOMENET:  (714) 995-7344       UUCP:  uunet!ccicpg!turnkey!conexch!rob
WORKNET:  (714) 229-0284


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			Robert Collins on SMOG tests
			============================


>From: rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins)
Subject: Re: SMOGging a high performance motor
Date: 18 Mar 88 17:45:16 GMT
Reply-To: rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins)
Distribution: ca
Organization: The Consultants' Exchange, Orange County, CA.  (714) 842-6348

The best way of beating the smog test is to bribe the guy testing it.
It's rather easy down around L.A.  You might also try tuning your motor to its
highest capability instead of detuning it.  You see, by detuning it, your
motor is running less efficient, therefore has more hydrocarbons.  I own
a '86 VW GTI that has the motor modified with bigger valves in the head, much
hotter camshaft, exchaust, etc.  Furthermore, I was sales manager of the
premier racing shop in the U.S. Drake Engineering (builder of the 26-time
Indy winning Offenhauser "OFFY" racing motor).  At Drake, as sales manager,
I sold high performance parts to street guys.  As for the products we produced
(big valve head, cams etc.) our typical customer report was that the guy at
the smog station told the customer that the car burned cleaner than any other
VW he had ever tested, and wanted to know who tuned his motor.  Furtermore,
the customer reported a modest gain in gas milage too.  Personally, I gained
20% better gas milage on the highway, and break even in the city with my
motor.  But to be honest, I haven't smogged it yet...it's due now.  In
summary, I would recommend the following (in order of the size of your
wallet): 
1) Tune the motor to its highest possible standards
2) Put in Avgas, or racing gas...don't use methane.
3) Get a new cam.  One that has 113-115 degree lobe centers.  This will
   have less valve overlap, and therefore less unburned fuel will get
   in the exhaust.
I recommend this for your specific case, as you mentioned you own a
turbo.  The cam choice (lobe centers) would not work that well with
a naturally aspirated car.  108 for dual carbs, and 110 for fuel injection.
Robert Collins (714) 995-7344.



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			Robert Collins on Subframes
			===========================

>From: rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Scirocco tires and body stiffeners (was: Re: Mustang GT Upgrade)
Date: 30 Aug 88 21:41:56 GMT
Reply-To: rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins)
Organization: The Consultants' Exchange, Orange County, CA.  (714) 842-6348

->In article <1419@eos.UUCP> chan@ames.arc.nasa.gov (Jeff Chan) writes:
->>Also has anyone tried or heard of body stiffeners (other than strut
->>bars).  Perhaps cabriolets have some good pieces.  I would imagine
->>that aftermarket convertible-makers might also have some expertise.
->>(I may eventually go to a full roll cage, but I'm wondering if I can
->>get similar stiffening without the passenger space intrusion.)
->
->Try getting subframe connectors.  They weld in between the front
->and rear subframes under the car to give you a full frame.
->

The Scirocco doesn't have subframes as they are known on the '85 and
later Golfs and Jettas.  I think you better define subframes.  I've been
building suspensions for VW Watercooled cars for 8 years, and can't think
of what subframes you could be talking about on the Scirocco.

As for body stiffeners, VW Motorsport (Germany) used to make uni-body
panels that welded on top of existing body panels to give extra strength.
Two people you can try for this:
GMP Performance (Charlotte NC)
ABT Motorsport (714) 859-7773

Since I believe they were discontinued many years ago, you might try
Vasek Polak (Redondo Beach, CA area 213).  Speak to Karl Thompsen.
Karl has many old VWM parts laying around from about 8 years ago.

About the last thing that works is 1) a rear stress bar (read that:
doesn't work...waste of money).  Though many people sell them, I kid
them, and we laugh at the public for insisting on buying them...since
we all agree they do NOTHING for handling, or body stiffness.  {
Another waste of money is triagulated stress bars.

FYI:  I have a 86 GTI w/ MUCH suspension on it.  You inquired about
A008R's.  I have a set of 195-50-15 on 15x7 Fittipaldi Aero wheels.
Previously I had 205-50-15's.  The 195, though smaller, handle better
because the rim width is leaves less sidewall to flex, and kill
handling.  Forget the 'contact patch' buzz word that was (seemingly)
recently invented to sell tires.  I love the commercials on TV that
say people buy their tires because of the contact patch, but tell
you nothing about why that makes people buy the tires, or how the
contact patch relates to the commercials' intended allegation.

-- 
"Worship the Lord your God, and serve him only."  Mat. 4:10
Robert Collins                 UUCP:  ucbvax!ucivax!icnvax!conexch!rob
HOMENET:  (714) 995-7344       UUCP:  uunet!ccicpg!turnkey!conexch!rob
WORKNET:  (714) 229-0284



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			Robert Collins on VW Tools
			==========================

>From: rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins)
Subject: Re: VW Rabbit Tools
Keywords: camshaft belt, locking tools
Date: 20 Nov 88 16:08:56 GMT
Reply-To: rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins)
Organization: The Consultants' Exchange, Orange County, CA.  (714) 842-6348

In article <788@amc.UUCP> williet@amc.UUCP (Willie Tilse) writes:
+In article <6836@batcomputer.tn.cornell.edu> garnett@tcgould.tn.cornell.edu
+Roger Garnett) writes:
+>In article <6002@fluke.COM> kelpie@tc.fluke.COM (Tony Garland) writes:
+>>Naively, I went to Volkswagen to attempt to obtain several "VW tools"
+>>mentioned in the service manual. ...
+>
+>>Guess what?  Volkswagen doesn't sell these tools ...
+> -No surprise.
+>So they (usually :-( ) use what works. The pictures are usefull for figuring
+>out the best way to jig a job. Use what works. Of course, finding out what
+>works can sometimes take a few tries 8-).
+
Pendergrass tools in Anaheim, CA (area code 714) sell ALL the tools
mentioned in the VW manual.  Pendergrass specializes in VW 'special'
tools.


-- 
"Worship the Lord your God, and serve him only."  Mat. 4:10
Robert Collins                 UUCP:  ucbvax!ucivax!icnvax!conexch!rob
HOMENET:  (805) 523-3205       UUCP:  uunet!ccicpg!turnkey!conexch!rob
WORKNET:  (805) 371-5081



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			Robert Collins on VW&Porsche
			============================

>From: rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: VWs and Porsches
Keywords: What do you know?
Date: 7 Nov 88 08:53:33 GMT
Reply-To: rob@conexch.UUCP (PUT YOUR NAME HERE)
Organization: The Consultants' Exchange, Orange County, CA.  (714) 842-6348

In article <13230@oberon.USC.EDU> jan@lipari.usc.edu (Jan Vandenbrande) writes:
>In article <10743@conexch.UUCP> rob@conexch.UUCP (PUT YOUR NAME HERE) writes:
>.In article <2562@alliant.Alliant.COM> powell@alliant.COM (Glen D. Powell) writes:
>
>       Why don't you share your comments with us? Inquiring minds like
>to know.
>
I think it would be highly inapropriate for me to say anything publicly
that I could be sued for.  I will say this:  VW & Porsche has a staff
writer that rants & raves about Techtonics, while he puts down Drake
Performance.  This is the same writer that has had a Drake motor &
turbo in his 'Project GTI' for many years.  He has been satisfied, and
content.  Why the switch of loyalty to Techtonics?  C'mon, a welded
stroker in the name of high performance?  Forged pistons in a street
car?  (Forged pistons require .005" piston/wall clearance (as opposed
to .0015" for cast pistons), and thus SUCK oil down during warmup.)
Forged piston are a last resort for street cars...used ONLY when you
can't get cast pistons.  The reason they are required in this case
is because of the odd-ball stroke in the welded stroker crank.

Now, that I've said that, who do you think is building this authors
next motor (as I write this)?  Drake!

It just goes to show you, you can say anything you want, but he knows
where to go for HIS motor.


-- 
"Worship the Lord your God, and serve him only."  Mat. 4:10
Robert Collins                 UUCP:  ucbvax!ucivax!icnvax!conexch!rob
HOMENET:  (714) 995-7344       UUCP:  uunet!ccicpg!turnkey!conexch!rob
WORKNET:  (714) 229-0284

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

>From: renata@aurora.arc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: VWs and Porsches
Date: 11 Nov 88 01:26:23 GMT
Sender: news@eos.UUCP

>From article <11796@conexch.UUCP>, by rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins):
> [...]  Why the switch of loyalty to Techtonics?  C'mon, a welded
> stroker in the name of high performance?  Forged pistons in a street
> car?  (Forged pistons require .005" piston/wall clearance (as opposed
> to .0015" for cast pistons), and thus SUCK oil down during warmup.)
> Forged piston are a last resort for street cars...used ONLY when you
> can't get cast pistons.  The reason they are required in this case
> is because of the odd-ball stroke in the welded stroker crank.
> [...]

I wish Darell Vittone was on the net to defend himself.  From what
I've read and heard, Techtonics recommends against forged pistons
in street cars for the same reason.  I'll check the catalog I got
tonight, but I'm certain that the short and longblocks they sell
do *not* use forged pistons.

The best thing about Techtonics is that they *try* to be scientific
and test all of their changes on their dynomometer and flow bench.
You can argue about their methods only because they spell them out 
and try to be fair and open minded.  The info packets I've gotten 
from Drake and Autotech (sorry for naming them in the same paragraph) 
seemed built on experience and hype, respectively, but did not present 
reasonably controlled test data.

My personal opinions & I have no connection with any above businesses,

Jeff C.
Internet: chan@ames.arc.nasa.gov
UUCP:     ames!chan


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